Routing for the T-Molding was pretty
simple. I thought that this part was going to take a great deal of
time, but the router went through the MDF like butter. Beware of
the dust. This step creates a great deal of dust, make sure you
wear a mask.
I didn't run into many problems with
the actual cabinet construction until I cut out the hole for the coin
door. I measured the length and width of the coin door, but I
didn't take into account the fact the coin door's corners were rounded.
When I test mounted the door, I noticed that rounded corners of the coin
door did not cover the square corners that I created in my cut. To
fix this I cut four corners off a scrap piece of wood that I had and hot
glued them into the coin door hole. After adding some wood filler,
sanding, and painting, you cannot notice the mistake from the outside of
On of the things that I modified from
the Project Arcade book was the addition of a keyboard tray. I'm
glad I did this, I've needed to use it many times.
For speakers, I decided to go with the Altec Lansing
VS2221 speakers. The thing that I liked about these speakers was
the ability to remove the base and "wall mount" them. Using this
feature, I found it very simple to mount the speakers. I simply
created 2 bases for the speakers and routed out an area for the wires to
pass through. They made a nice snug fit and the now the volume
control is accessible to the user.
Applying the wood filler over the screw
holes, priming, and painting was pretty painless. The color I
chose was Blaze Yellow from Sears.
For the coin-door lights I used the
Flexiglow Lazer Beam Kit from
www.directron.com. The kit contained 3 super bright LED's and
a standard Molex connector to plug into the computers power supply.
They worked great!